Please read ALL THREE LSCA pages. Thank you.
Page 1 - Page 2 - Page 3
Although this page may seem
confusing or complex, the work itself is really not difficult.
It's possible that my way
of writing instructions makes it seem like a real difficult
If so, I apologize. I need to improve my writing
I've done this so many times, that it's
actually much easier than this page suggests.
Please study all the pictures.
LSCA-3 uses two (2) CII solid state relays, which are
mounted in the control box, shown above.
The control box is mounted inside the Hammond -
not in a Leslie.
No matter how many Leslies you might use, the
LSCA-3 controls motors, and the relay in the Leslie amp is not used.
In all fairness -
especially to consumers -
remember that each stock Leslie amp has its own motor relay.
believe they are low quality, cheap, and unreliable. And I'm not alone.
Hundreds of other Hammond players believe that, too.
After repairing or
replacing enough stock relays, you wonder why a company would use such
low quality parts.
I think the
reason is to save money and make more profit from the consumer.
But that's only my personal opinion.
The older relays
were P&B (Potter & Brumfield) brand, and the contact points were exposed - you could see them, and
get to them.
could temporarily repair burned contacts on the relay. Just use some
sandpaper to polish the burned metal.
Then, some years
later, things changed. Replacement
relays were in a small, sealed, black box on a little circuit board.
meant you couldn't even get to the contacts to repair them.
A replacement relay is shown here: bottom,
center, on the small tan circuit board.
actual relay is the little black, sealed box.
no way to open it to try and repair contacts. Replacement is the only option.
Almost every LSCA-3 which we've ever built
includes the required 9 conductor 25' Leslie cable(s). They're completely
wired and ready for use.
Most of them were tested right here, on our own
But what are they? They're just plain 9
conductor Leslie cables (readily available from H/S and many other sources) with a
On each end are AMP-CPC connectors. (one male and
They're wired "straight" - meaning
pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2, etc. Nothing fancy or unusual.
LSCA-3 owners built their own cables. Some ordered the AMP-CPC parts online,
others ordered them from us.
Some bought the 25' cables from us, some
ordered them from H/S or other suppliers.
Sometimes I refer to the AMP-CPC gold contacts as "pins", whether they're male
(pins) or female (sockets). I'll clarify that:
The Hammond CHASSIS connector(s) use female
The Leslie or Hammond Tone Cabinet CHASSIS
connector(s) use male pins.
With AMP-CPC connectors, the gold pins are
soldered to the wires first - outside of the connectors.
very neat, very precise soldering work.
Then the pins just push right into
the connectors, and lock themselves very firmly and solidly into place.
You can hear the "click" as they lock.
The connectors are
numbered, so mistakes are doubtful.
The pins can be removed with a small, inexpensive
AMP tool, but it's not likely you'll ever have to remove them.
Search YouTube for
AMP-CPC, and watch some actual assemblies.
You may note in some of the videos, the
wires are crimped into the pins or sockets.
We always soldered the
wires into the pins and sockets - a much stronger choice than crimping.
AMP-CPC connectors are the best that money
can buy. Gold pins and sockets, locking rings, and the strongest cable
clamps I have ever seen.
AMP makes several different types of cable
clamps. We tried them all.
The cable clamp
we selected is actually about 4"-5" of super heavy heat shrink tubing with
reactive glue inside it.
I believe the wall thickness of this heat
shrink is about 3/16" - and possibly thicker! I have never,
ever seen such heavy duty heat shrink before.
As you shrink the clamp, the glue actually
oozes out. You have to clean off the excess glue quickly, and
you'll probably burn your fingers doing it.
The glue hardens in about 45-60 minutes.
(picture 1, below)
Once you shrink the clamp, that's it. It's
permanent - a razor knife is required to remove it.
We also used about 12" of normal (thin wall) heat
shrink, which slid all the way up to the back of the connector, after we shrunk the AMP-CPC's heat shrink.
It covers any remaining glue leakage, and adds even more strength.
(pictures 2, 4, and 7, below)
You could probably drag the Hammond around with
the cable if the chassis box didn't break off first!
With AMP-CPC connectors, all pins or
sockets are recessed inside the
You can walk on them, or drop a stage monitor on
(I really don't suggest either, but both have accidentally happened to me.)
The pins and sockets are completely protected. Try that with stock
I can't emphasize enough how great AMP-CPC
connectors are for this application.
We built about 80 LSCA-3 kits, almost all for 4
Leslies. We also built ~15-20 more for my personal use.
That's approximately 1,000 AMP-CPC connectors, and it's a low estimate.
After about 20 years of continuous use
- beginning in 1990 - I've
never even HEARD of a
problem with these connectors.
Click the pictures below to get a better idea.
Picture 6 (above) shows four (4) AMP-CPC
Hammond chassis connectors, and the three (3) completed wiring harnesses.
contact pins (which are actually female sockets) are clearly visible.
was taken before the harness labels were added.
labels, I think you can easily recognize:
- red, black and brown wires
VOLTAGE HARNESS - blue and grey
- white/white and brown/brown wires
want to study all the pictures carefully.
Consider these facts:
With LSCA-3, each
CHASSIS CONNECTOR (both Hammond and Leslie) has a total of nine (9) wires.
The wires are tightly twisted into
THREE (3) separate color-coded
The HARNESSES are labeled, so you CAN'T make a
mistake - even if you want to.
In most cases, the
CONNECTORS are completely prewired - meaning the pins are already inserted into
the AMP-CPC connectors. (but read below)
Two (2) connectors, one on
the Hammond, one on the Leslie, equal a GRAND TOTAL of eighteen (18)
wires to connect - nine (9) at each end.
This is even easier than
removing the AO28 preamp from a Hammond.
For just a moment, let's pretend.
Think along with me if you will. Let's dispense with the
Here's a Hammond organ and Leslie. Let's
pretend there are no motors in the Leslie.
Now let's think: what
needs to be connected to get sound from the Leslie?
(a) 110 volts to power the Leslie amp, and
(b) organ output signal (directly from the Hammond
preamp) for the Leslie to amplify
OK - now the Leslie can function, but
without motors. It has power, and it has signal.
NOW - let's connect four (4) more wires: two (2) white
motors) and two (2) brown wires (fast motors).
These four (4) wires connect to
the LSCA-3 box at the Hammond end, and to the motors at the Leslie end.
They control slow and fast motors.
There is no need for a
There is no need for ANY adapter.
Repeating myself, let's break down WHAT you need to
Three (3) wires for the balanced organ
output signal. (whether we use it as balanced or
determined by the amplifier input)
Two (2) wires for 110 volts to power
the Leslie amp.
Four (4) wires for the Leslie motors.
(and four (4) wires from the 3 position, prewired Leslie hand switch)
If you're with me, we're wiring the organ signal
and power directly to the amplifier - no adapters or components.
This is exactly the same as connecting a Hammond Tone
Cabinet, isn't it?
The LSCA-3 gets 110 volts, too,
when the organ is turned on. (note the blue and grey wires on the
side of the LSCA, pictured above)
It can send 110 volts out on the white (slow
wires, OR the brown (fast motor) wires, OR NO volts to motor wires (stop position).
Now you can understand the need for nine
(9) conductors. Four (4) of those nine (9) conductors only control
All LSCA-3 really does is either send
110 volts out, or send no volts out, depending on where you flip the Leslie switch
review the pictures at the top of the page, and note the
terminal strips on both ends of the LSCA-3 control box
Read the following text
carefully - it's very important
terminal strips and wiring, there are exactly THREE
parts in an LSCA-3.
of the parts are identical, expensive, solid
state relays which can easily handle eight (8) Leslies.
we used were CII (Continental Industries) brand, part number
SVDA-3V10 (the spec
(data) sheet is at this link)
They're available from most online
If you're technical and curious,
link will clarify solid state relays.
Click both links and READ - you can learn
This picture is very embarrassing.
Wires were everywhere during a "build".
If you click,
the above picture, you can see #1 and #2 - these are the CII solid state
And, you're probably thinking, "What is the
Please don't hurt my feelings .... try not to
laugh too hard.
It's a high quality 110VAC to 12VDC
converter, rated at 1000mA - far more powerful than needed for
refer to these converters as "wall warts". They're about as
common as light bulbs.
Immediately, we ran into a MAJOR problem. The converter wouldn't FIT in the LSCA-3 box!
There was absolutely no way we could mount it in the box and get the cover on. We were in BIG trouble! We didn't
want a LARGER box - we wanted the 6" x 4" x 2" plastic (non-conductive) box, shown in the pictures.
AND, we REFUSED to install a 110VAC receptacle anywhere inside the Hammond to plug the converter in - we wanted LSCA-3 completely self-contained. We
wanted the smallest, most basic, simple configuration possible - just a 110VAC feed (the blue/grey wires on the side of the box), and two (2)
terminal strips (on the ends of the box). (The three (3) pictures at the top of this page
clarify a complete LSCA-3, ready for installation.)
I looked at
Rebecca, Rebecca looked at me, and we said, "let's see what's inside this thing". We could live through wasting the converter if we wrecked it.
We didn't wreck it.
We very carefully cut the "black box" open, so we could remove the actual converter for
examination, measuring, and mounting in the LSCA-3 control box. A Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel, or a hacksaw blade (just the blade, not the whole saw) - used VERY carefully - will
open up the plastic box, and not damage anything.
FOR THIS, YOU MUST BE PATIENT.
||I think you can identify the 110VAC to 12VDC converter in this picture. The transformer and a
filter capacitor are easily visible. The converter was built on a PC board, and had a few more small components. (I'll let you discover that part.)
The nice part about it was the entire converter just slid right out of the black plastic
enclosure, once we got it open.
But - what about the plug - the two (2) metal prongs that actually plug into a wall socket?
A Dremel cutoff wheel, one (1) minute of careful work, and they cut right off. (Look at the picture where the blue and grey wires are soldered
to the transformer.)
A very simple step - and the converter fit in the LSCA-3 box perfectly! I mean perfectly!
Now we had no problem putting the cover on, and we were REALLY making progress. After years
(literally) of disappointments on the workbench, we achieved our goal. LSCA-3 was finally becoming reality.
It was 1990, and I'd been failing since 1963.
Pretty soon, we called Mouser Electronics, and ordered 25 converters, 25 LSCA-3 boxes, 50
relays, plus terminal strips and other odds and ends.
Inside of the
black plastic converter enclosure were several small pieces of FOAM, which we guessed were there to help prevent shock or vibration damage to the converter.
That's what gave us the idea for the silicone sealant. As we thought this out, it seemed sensible that, with silicone, shock
wouldn't ever be an issue. How can something wiggle loose when the silicone has it locked in place?
Something that surprised us was the fact that the actual converter itself was so small - only about 2" x 2" x 1.5" - (almost
all of that was the transformer) - but the black plastic enclosure was so large. We never
figured that one out.
probably own and use several of them - for your cell phone,
computer router, cordless phone charger, external USB hard drive,
rechargeable flashlight, possibly various musical instruments - the list
goes on and
on and on.
Even my old Pignose
amplifier used one. And, if I recall correctly, so did my Kurzweil
pc88mx, Roland XP-10, Hohner clavinet, and several other keyboard
instruments and accessories. Not all
of them used 110VAC to 12VDC, but that isn't really important. What is
important is that they used an AC to DC converter to function. For
example, the Hohner clavinet used 9VDC - not 12VDC.
you're probably thinking, "Why
is THAT in there?" The answer is so simple, it's almost comical.
It's there to provide
very low DC control voltage - the voltage used to turn on (enable) the relays.
ALL relays require control voltage to enable them.
After a lot
of testing, with a LOT of different relays, we decided on relays that could be turned on with
LOW DC voltage and current.
very carefully, and selected the relays even more carefully.
The CII relays only require about 5mA to operate.
(the technical specs are linked above - you really should
That means the
12VDC/1000mA supply in the LSCA-3 could actually operate over 100
of the relays at once!
But LSCA-3 only
enables ONE relay at a time - either the SLOW motor relay or the FAST
if you really understand CURRENT (amperage). If not,
please spend one or two minutes and learn.
pretend again. Suppose you had TWO portable (110VAC) air
compressors, and your power outlet connected to a 20 amp
compressor requires 15 amps to function. You turn one
compressor on, and everything is fine - it works perfectly.
also turn on the second compressor, the breaker fails, and
shuts down. WHY?
is that 15 amps (first compressor) PLUS 15
amps (second compressor) overloaded the 20 amp
The two (2)
compressors were demanding 30 amps - which is more than a
20 amp circuit breaker can supply.
I hope you
understand this concept - it's very basic, but it's very
situations of electronic overload, something must fail.
It could be a hand switch, a relay, or, as above, a circuit breaker.
The reason for
our decision was that with such low voltage and current, the Leslie switch would
probably last for 500 years - with no burned contacts.
seen plenty of Leslie switches with burned contacts - making
(research 147/unbalanced Leslies)
Consider the 3 position Leslie switch. It's identical to a Fender Telecaster
or Stratocaster pickup switch, and it was designed to switch ultra low
voltage from guitar pickups. But guitar pickups don't even produce
one (1) volt, and the mA (current) output is so low, it's almost
The Leslie switch wasn't designed for higher voltage or current switching.
did quite a bit of searching, but due to the unusual physical design of the
Leslie switch (ie; it must fit precisely inside the half moon case,
and be held in place without top mounting screws), we
never found one with high contact rating.
I'm pretty sure Fender guitars do use top mount screws, but
standard half moon cases don't.
And we definitely required a stock, three position,
half moon Leslie switch. That's something we would not change for any
In many (or most) situations, the Hammond player only uses one Leslie.
That means the Leslie switch is only controlling two (2) motors
(upper and lower, slow or fast) at any given time.
When you (me, actually) normally use at least three (3)
Leslies, preferably four (4), the number of motors to be turned on increases - and the need
for higher rated components (more current) goes up with every
I've played one or two live shows with six (6) Leslies: that's
twelve (12) fast motors, and twelve (12) slow motors.
At home, I tested LSCA-3 with eight (8) Leslies at one time - no problems whatsoever.
The LSCA-3 components didn't even get warm.
I would have tested LSCA-3 with more motors, but I only owned eight (8)
Leslies at that time.
Maybe now you can understand why we wanted to switch very
low DC control voltage and current with LSCA-3.
And maybe now you can understand why we wanted to use superior 10 amp
solid state relays, instead of any other type of motor
Our testing proved that we were thinking the right way.
in LSCA-3 was chosen to carry higher capacity loads than LSCA-3 would ever
I'm sorry the
picture (at the top of this box) doesn't illustrate how neat and organized our
wiring is. It's very embarrassing.
really bad, confusing picture, which was made a few days before
the LSCA-3 was installed properly.
To clarify a
little: the blue/grey 110VAC feed wires look like they're going
back into the LSCA-3 box - which is completely wrong.
were connected to a switched 110VAC feed on the tone generator soon after that confusing
picture was taken.
You can see that, below. Here's another link.
These pictures show much
neater wiring, but still incomplete. (note the preset panels - we got to them last)
You can believe
this: when completed, our wiring is very neat. I'm a fanatic about neat
wiring. (see the pictures on the
custom Leslie amp page if you doubt that)
The rest of this page explains wiring connections
at the HAMMOND and at the LESLIE.
In other words, CHASSIS
connectors, not CABLE connectors.
Take your time,
read carefully, check your work constantly - and relax.
Click the pictures frequently, too - they clarify details.
Disconnect organ power before beginning
connector and its wires are not required for an LSCA-3 installation.
Mount the Hammond Chassis Connector. An AMP-CPC 9
conductor Hammond Chassis Connector, complete with three labeled
wiring harnesses, (referred to as
HARNESS, VOLTAGE HARNESS,
and MOTOR HARNESS), is included
with your LSCA-3 kit.
SIGNAL HARNESS - red, black and brown wires
VOLTAGE HARNESS - blue and grey
- white/white and brown/brown wires
connector in the Hammond chassis outlet box. Stainless hardware is
included. Two holes must be drilled per chassis connector. Route the 3
harnesses up through the tube (the tube without the pedal wires is preferred)
into the case of the organ.
installations other than B3/C3 type chassis outlet box, you'll have to
fabricate or buy a secure mount for this connector. Most metal shops
can build anything you specify. A local shop build several
chassis boxes for me, and the cost was very reasonable - approximately $40.00
each. I also had one chassis box built for eight (8) connectors.
That box cost $50.00.
supplied are much longer than necessary. You can remove any excess,
once you've decided exactly where the wires will be routed.
For multiple Leslie installations, the
AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector harness
pins cannot be inserted into the chassis connectors until
after the connectors are securely mounted, because the
pins are inserted behind the connectors.
This is exactly the
same as if you used multiple Amphenols, for multiple Leslies - connections
are behind the chassis.
You will be supplied
with the correct harnesses, completely and properly wired, for as many Leslies as
specified, but the pins will not be inserted into the connectors.
must carefully insert the pins into the connectors after
the connectors have been mounted on the chassis.
applies to the Hammond Chassis Connector end if you require multiple
single AMP-CPC installations, ignore this - all pins are inserted
Chassis Connectors are completely prewired, with all pins inserted
Please refer to the
LSCA-3 wiring chart (below) for the color codes and pin numbers
inserting any pins into the connectors.
THIS IS CRITICAL
(b) Provide 110v to
the LSCA-3 box and VOLTAGE HARNESS. The blue and grey wires coming from the
LSCA-3 box connect to a switched 110v source - either the
blue/grey terminals on the AO28 preamp, or the (preferred) terminals
on the left side of the tone generator. At the same time, connect the
blue and grey wires, which come from the AMP-CPC 9
conductor Hammond Chassis Connector (VOLTAGE HARNESS)
to the same 110v source. Reminder: this is switched 110
volts. 110 volts present when organ is turned on.
(c) Connect the
position hand switch cable to the LSCA-3 box, at the
terminals labeled "Chorale SWITCH Tremolo".
White and white
wires connect to the Chorale terminals.
Brown and brown wires connect to the
Install the 3 position hand switch into your
existing halfmoon switch case, or install using your choice of
alternate mounting options.
Note: the 3 position
hand switch is a standard Fender
Telecaster or Stratocaster pickup switch. It's correctly
so it can only enable SLOW, OR OFF, OR FAST.
It cannot enable fast and slow at the same time, which can
cause damage to the motors.
(d) Connect the
following 4 wires from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor
Hammond Chassis Connector (MOTOR
HARNESS) to the LSCA-3 box at the terminals labeled "Slow MOTOR Fast".
White and white wires connect to the "SLOW"
Brown and brown wires connect to the "FAST" terminals.
You can now remove the cover and mount the LSCA-3 box to the shelf
of the Hammond, using the supplied 3/4" wood screws and flat washers. Replace
Finally, remove all existing wiring from the signal terminals of the
AO28 preamp, and solder the red, black, and brown wires from the
AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector
(SIGNAL HARNESS) directly to the
AO28 signal terminals, at terminals G G and BRN.
This completes the LSCA-3 installation at the Hammond console
Leslie Amp Installation:
to and print the LSCA-3 wiring chart below)
(a) Remove existing 6c
Amphenol connector from the Leslie amp. Carefully
MARK each of these connections.
MARKING EXISTING WIRES IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT. Just one
small error can wreck your whole day, and probably damage your
the Amphenol with the prewired AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie
included with the LSCA-3 kit.
Stainless hardware is supplied.
This connector has 12" labeled wiring
On rare occasions, the existing mounting holes may have to
be filed very slightly to permit the mounting screws to be straight. This is not "usual" - it's unusual.
Please refer to the wiring chart found below,
and follow the coding exactly. Observe professional
quality wiring practice, and solder very carefully. Use heat shrink
to insulate all connections.
(b) Select the option for motor wiring:
(1) wire motors to the existing motor plugs
(2) mount a new,
AMP-CPC 4 conductor Motor Connector for motor
wiring, if you ordered one with your LSCA-3. If not, one can be
installed anytime. (see picture 5 above)
your option is (1), remove all existing motor wiring from the
motor sockets inside the Leslie amp. Once all wiring is removed, the brown wires from the
AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie Chassis Connector will be soldered to the FAST
motor outlets, and the white wires will be soldered to the SLOW
If your option is (2), mount the prewired
AMP-CPC 4 conductor
Motor Connector on the Leslie amp. Stainless
hardware is supplied. Two small holes must be drilled
to mount the connector. (See "Additional
notes", below.) Solder the brown wires to the
brown wires from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie
Chassis Connector, repeat
for the white wires. Trim the wires as needed before
soldering, and use heat shrink to insulate. Run the
white/brown motor harness inside the Leslie bass compartment and connect both
upper and lower slow motors to the white
leads. Connect both upper and lower fast motors to
the brown leads. Insulate these connections as
You can mount a
standard quad electrical outlet box (inside the bass
compartment) with one white socket and one brown
socket, and just plug the motors into the proper color
outlets after wiring the outlets properly. This should be
self-explanatory. White for slow, brown for fast.
completes the LSCA-3 installation at the Leslie amp end
Wiring Chart for
reference, original 122 type (balanced) Leslies use the following pin
Amphenol pin (1) –
signal - BLACK
Amphenol pin (2) –
ground - YELLOW
Amphenol pin (3) - 110v - GREY
Amphenol pin (4) - 110v - BLUE
Amphenol pin (5) -
B+ - BROWN
Amphenol pin (6) –
signal - RED
reference, original 147 type (unbalanced) Leslies use the following pin
Amphenol pin (1) – signal - BLACK
Amphenol pin (2) - motor switching - YELLOW
Amphenol pin (3) - 110v - GREY
Amphenol pin (4) - 110v - BLUE
Amphenol pin (5) - motor switching - BROWN
Amphenol pin (6) – signal - RED
LSCA-3 uses the following pin connections.
Please print this.
AMP-CPC 9 conductor connectors
AMP-CPC pin (1) RED - organ signal + (high)
: SIGNAL HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (2) BLACK - organ signal - (low) : SIGNAL HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (3) BROWN - organ signal - chassis ground : SIGNAL HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (4) BLUE - 110v : VOLTAGE HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (5) GREY - 110v : VOLTAGE HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (6) WHITE - slow motors : MOTOR HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (7) WHITE - slow motors : MOTOR HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (8) BROWN - fast motors : MOTOR HARNESS
AMP-CPC pin (9) BROWN - fast motors : MOTOR HARNESS
AMP-CPC 4 conductor
AMP-CPC pin (1) WHITE - slow motors
AMP-CPC pin (2) WHITE - slow motors
AMP-CPC pin (3) BROWN - fast motors
AMP-CPC pin (4) BROWN - fast motors
AMP-CPC Part Numbers
SHELL SIZE 17 - 9 conductor - for Hammond/Leslie cables and chassis
211767-1 : receptacle
211766-1 : plug
54011-1 : heat shrink cable clamp
207299-3 : panel mount flange
66180-1 : gold pin contacts
66181-1 : gold socket contacts
SHELL SIZE 11 - 4 conductor - for Leslie motor connector
206061-1 : receptacle
206060-1 : plug
207489-1 : cable boot
207490-1 : cable clamp
207299-1 : panel mount flange
66180-1 : gold pin contacts
66181-1 : gold socket contacts
Original motor switching connections can be removed from
the Leslie amp.
SIGNAL harness on both
conductor Chassis Connectors (specifically the Hammond connector and the
Leslie connector) provides 3 wire connection for
Leslies or other amplifiers.
For unbalanced Leslies, or other
unbalanced applications, connect only the BROWN (chassis ground) and
the RED (signal high) wires inside the Leslie amp. Connect all
three signal wires at the Hammond end, as instructed above.
REPEAT: For unbalanced Leslies or other
unbalanced applications, do not connect the
AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie Chassis Connector pin 2 (black, organ signal low). Just use heat shrink to
completes the installation of the LSCA-3
Because the LSCA-3 does not use the Leslie switching circuitry, the
second 12AU7 tube (closer to the center of the amp chassis), socket, and all associated wiring may be removed
from the amplifier. Also, the original relay and all of its wiring
may be removed, as well as the small 5 pin "brake" socket.
If you ordered the AMP-CPC 4 connector (for motors)
it will fit perfectly in the hole
previously used by the extra 12AU7 (switching) tube. This hole is also
available on 147 style amplifiers - it is covered with a pop out
especially HERE. Other photos are also
located on the ProKeys website - just look around.