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total sl-prokeys hits since April, 2003

On Thursday, August 21, 2003, at 2:45pm, my wife of 34 years, Rebecca, died in my arms in an emergency room.

The last words we spoke were in perfect synchronization: "I love you with all my heart."


LSCA-3 Installation and Construction


Please read ALL THREE LSCA pages.  Thank you.

Page 1 - Page 2 - Page 3



Although this page may seem confusing or complex, the work itself is really not difficult.

It's possible that my way of writing instructions makes it seem like a real difficult project. 

If so, I apologize.  I need to improve my writing skills.  

I've done this so many times, that it's actually much easier than this page suggests.

Please study all the pictures.




LSCA-3 uses two (2) CII solid state relays, which are mounted in the control box, shown above. 

The control box is mounted inside the Hammond - not in a Leslie. 

No matter how many Leslies you might use, the LSCA-3 controls motors, and the relay in the Leslie amp is not used.

In all fairness - especially to consumers - remember that each stock Leslie amp has its own motor relay. 

I believe they are low quality, cheap, and unreliable.  And I'm not alone.  Hundreds of other Hammond players believe that, too. 

After repairing or replacing enough stock relays, you wonder why a company would use such low quality parts.

I think the reason is to save money and make more profit from the consumerBut that's only my personal opinion.

The older relays were P&B (Potter & Brumfield) brand, and the contact points were exposed - you could see them, and get to them.

You could temporarily repair burned contacts on the relay.  Just use some 800 grit sandpaper to polish the burned metal.

Then, some years later, things changed.  Replacement relays were in a small, sealed, black box on a little circuit board.

That "improvement" meant you couldn't even get to the contacts to repair them.

A replacement relay is shown here: bottom, center, on the small tan circuit board. 

The actual relay is the little black, sealed box. 

There's no way to open it to try and repair contacts.  Replacement is the only option. 



Almost every LSCA-3 which we've ever built includes the required 9 conductor 25' Leslie cable(s).  They're completely wired and ready for use. 

Most of them were tested right here, on our own equipment. 


But what are they?  They're just plain 9 conductor Leslie cables (readily available from H/S and many other sources) with a slight difference.

On each end are AMP-CPC connectors. (one male and one female)

They're wired "straight" - meaning pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2, etc.  Nothing fancy or unusual. 


Several LSCA-3 owners built their own cables.  Some ordered the AMP-CPC parts online, others ordered them from us.

Some bought the 25' cables from us, some ordered them from H/S or other suppliers.


Sometimes I refer to the AMP-CPC gold contacts as "pins", whether they're male (pins) or female (sockets).  I'll clarify that:


The Hammond CHASSIS connector(s) use female sockets

The Leslie or Hammond Tone Cabinet CHASSIS connector(s) use male pins.


With AMP-CPC connectors, the gold pins are soldered to the wires first - outside of the connectors.  This allows very neat, very precise soldering work. 

Then the pins just push right into the connectors, and lock themselves very firmly and solidly into place.  You can hear the "click" as they lock. 

The connectors are clearly numbered, so mistakes are doubtful.

The pins can be removed with a small, inexpensive AMP tool, but it's not likely you'll ever have to remove them.


Search YouTube for AMP-CPC, and watch some actual assemblies. 

You may note in some of the videos, the wires are crimped into the pins or sockets. 

We always soldered the wires into the pins and sockets - a much stronger choice than crimping.


AMP-CPC connectors are the best that money can buy.  Gold pins and sockets, locking rings, and the strongest cable clamps I have ever seen.


AMP makes several different types of cable clamps.  We tried them all.

The cable clamp we selected is actually about 4"-5" of super heavy heat shrink tubing with waterproof, heat reactive glue inside it. 

I believe the wall thickness of this heat shrink is about 3/16" - and possibly thicker!  I have never, ever seen such heavy duty heat shrink before.  


As you shrink the clamp, the glue actually oozes out.  You have to clean off the excess glue quickly, and you'll probably burn your fingers doing it. 

The glue hardens in about 45-60 minutes. (picture 1, below)   

Once you shrink the clamp, that's it.  It's permanent - a razor knife is required to remove it.     

We also used about 12" of normal (thin wall) heat shrink, which slid all the way up to the back of the connector, after we shrunk the AMP-CPC's heat shrink. 

It covers any remaining glue leakage, and adds even more strength. (pictures 2, 4, and 7, below)


You could probably drag the Hammond around with the cable if the chassis box didn't break off first!


With AMP-CPC connectors, all pins or sockets are recessed inside the connector shell.

You can walk on them, or drop a stage monitor on them.  (I really don't suggest either, but both have accidentally happened to me.)

The pins and sockets are completely protected.  Try that with stock Amphenols.


I can't emphasize enough how great AMP-CPC connectors are for this application. 

We built about 80 LSCA-3 kits, almost all for 4 Leslies.  We also built ~15-20 more for my personal use.

That's approximately 1,000 AMP-CPC connectors, and it's a low estimate.

After about 20 years of continuous use - beginning in 1990 - I've never even HEARD of a problem with these connectors.


Click the pictures below to get a better idea.


1 2 3 4 5 6 7


Picture 6 (above) shows four (4) AMP-CPC Hammond chassis connectors, and the three (3) completed wiring harnesses.

The gold contact pins (which are actually female sockets) are clearly visible. 

The picture was taken before the harness labels were added Even without labels, I think you can easily recognize:

 The SIGNAL HARNESS - red, black and brown wires

 The VOLTAGE HARNESS - blue and grey wires

 The MOTOR HARNESS - white/white and brown/brown wires

You might want to study all the pictures carefully.


Consider these facts:

With LSCA-3, each CHASSIS CONNECTOR (both Hammond and Leslie) has a total of nine (9) wires. 

The wires are tightly twisted into THREE (3) separate color-coded HARNESSES. 

The HARNESSES are labeled, so you CAN'T make a mistake - even if you want to.


In most cases, the CONNECTORS are completely prewired - meaning the pins are already inserted into the AMP-CPC connectors. (but read below)

Two (2) connectors, one on the Hammond, one on the Leslie, equal a GRAND TOTAL of eighteen (18) wires to connect - nine (9) at each end. 

This is even easier than removing the AO28 preamp from a Hammond.


For just a moment, let's pretend.  Think along with me if you will.  Let's dispense with the confusion


Here's a Hammond organ and Leslie.  Let's pretend there are no motors in the Leslie. 

Now let's think: what needs to be connected to get sound from the Leslie?

(a) 110 volts to power the Leslie amp, and

(b) organ output signal (directly from the Hammond preamp) for the Leslie to amplify

OK - now the Leslie can function, but without motors.  It has power, and it has signal.   


NOW - let's connect four (4) more wires: two (2) white wires (slow motors) and two (2) brown wires (fast motors). 

These four (4) wires connect to the LSCA-3 box at the Hammond end, and to the motors at the Leslie end.

They control slow and fast motors.  There is no need for a Leslie adapterThere is no need for ANY adapter.


Repeating myself, let's break down WHAT you need to connect:

Three (3) wires for the balanced organ output signal. (whether we use it as balanced or unbalanced is determined by the amplifier input)

Two (2) wires for 110 volts to power the Leslie amp. 

Four (4) wires for the Leslie motors. (and four (4) wires from the 3 position, prewired Leslie hand switch)


If you're with me, we're wiring the organ signal and power directly to the amplifier - no adapters or components. 


This is exactly the same as connecting a Hammond Tone Cabinet, isn't it?     


The LSCA-3 gets 110 volts, too, when the organ is turned on. (note the blue and grey wires on the side of the LSCA, pictured above) 

It can send 110 volts out on the white (slow motor) wires, OR the brown (fast motor) wires, OR NO volts to motor wires (stop position). 

Now you can understand the need for nine (9) conductors.  Four (4) of those nine (9) conductors only control motors.


All LSCA-3 really does is either send 110 volts out, or send no volts out, depending on where you flip the Leslie switch

review the pictures at the top of the page, and note the terminal strips on both ends of the LSCA-3 control box

Read the following text carefully - it's very important

Excluding terminal strips and wiring, there are exactly THREE parts in an LSCA-3. 

TWO of the parts are identical, expensive, solid state relays which can easily handle eight (8) Leslies.


The relays we used were CII (Continental Industries) brand, part number SVDA-3V10 (the spec (data) sheet is at this link) 

They're available from most online electronic suppliers.

If you're technical and curious, this link will clarify solid state relays.

Click both links and READ - you can learn something.


This picture is very embarrassing. 

Wires were everywhere during a "build".


If you click, and study, the above picture, you can see #1 and #2 - these are the CII solid state relays.

And, you're probably thinking, "What is the THIRD part?

Please don't hurt my feelings .... try not to laugh too hard.


It's a high quality 110VAC to 12VDC converter, rated at 1000mA - far more powerful than needed for this application. 

Some people refer to these converters as "wall warts".  They're about as common as light bulbs.


Immediately, we ran into a MAJOR problem.  The converter wouldn't FIT in the LSCA-3 box!  There was absolutely no way we could mount it in the box and get the cover on.  We were in BIG trouble!  We didn't want a LARGER box - we wanted the 6" x 4" x 2" plastic (non-conductive) box, shown in the pictures.  AND, we REFUSED to install a 110VAC receptacle anywhere inside the Hammond to plug the converter in - we wanted LSCA-3 completely self-contained.  We wanted the smallest, most basic, simple configuration possible - just a 110VAC feed (the blue/grey wires on the side of the box), and two (2) terminal strips (on the ends of the box)(The three (3) pictures at the top of this page clarify a complete LSCA-3, ready for installation.)    


I looked at Rebecca, Rebecca looked at me, and we said, "let's see what's inside this thing".  We could live through wasting the converter if we wrecked it. 

We didn't wreck it.


We very carefully cut the "black box" open, so we could remove the actual converter for examination, measuring, and mounting in the LSCA-3 control box.  A Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel, or a hacksaw blade (just the blade, not the whole saw) - used VERY carefully - will open up the plastic box, and not damage anything. 



I think you can identify the 110VAC to 12VDC converter in this picture.  The transformer and a filter capacitor are easily visible.  The converter was built on a PC board, and had a few more small components. (I'll let you discover that part.)  The nice part about it was the entire converter just slid right out of the black plastic enclosure, once we got it open.

But - what about the plug - the two (2) metal prongs that actually plug into a wall socket?  A Dremel cutoff wheel, one (1) minute of careful work, and they cut right off. (Look at the picture where the blue and grey wires are soldered to the transformer.)  A very simple step - and the converter fit in the LSCA-3 box perfectly!  I mean perfectly!   

Now we had no problem putting the cover on, and we were REALLY making progress.  After years (literally) of disappointments on the workbench, we achieved our goal.  LSCA-3 was finally becoming reality.  It was 1990, and I'd been failing since 1963.     

Pretty soon, we called Mouser Electronics, and ordered 25 converters, 25 LSCA-3 boxes, 50 relays, plus terminal strips and other odds and ends.

Inside of the black plastic converter enclosure were several small pieces of FOAM, which we guessed were there to help prevent shock or vibration damage to the converter.  That's what gave us the idea for the silicone sealant.  As we thought this out, it seemed sensible that, with silicone, shock wouldn't ever be an issue.  How can something wiggle loose when the silicone has it locked in place?

Something that surprised us was the fact that the actual converter itself was so small - only about 2" x 2" x 1.5" - (almost all of that was the transformer) - but the black plastic enclosure was so large.  We never figured that one out.


You probably own and use several of them - for your cell phone, computer router, cordless phone charger, external USB hard drive, rechargeable flashlight, possibly various musical instruments - the list goes on and on and on. 


Even my old Pignose amplifier used one.  And, if I recall correctly, so did my Kurzweil pc88mx, Roland XP-10, Hohner clavinet, and several other keyboard instruments and accessories.  Not all of them used 110VAC to 12VDC, but that isn't really important.  What is important is that they used an AC to DC converter to function.  For example, the Hohner clavinet used 9VDC - not 12VDC.


Now you're probably thinking, "Why is THAT in there?"  The answer is so simple, it's almost comical. 

It's there to provide very low DC control voltage - the voltage used to turn on (enable) the relays.  ALL relays require control voltage to enable them.


After a lot of testing, with a LOT of different relays, we decided on relays that could be turned on with LOW DC voltage and current. 

We thought about this very carefully, and selected the relays even more carefully. 


The CII relays only require about 5mA to operate. (the technical specs are linked above - you really should read them) 

That means the 12VDC/1000mA supply in the LSCA-3 could actually operate over 100 of the relays at once! 

But LSCA-3 only enables ONE relay at a time - either the SLOW motor relay or the FAST motor relay.


Ignore this if you really understand CURRENT (amperage).  If not, please spend one or two minutes and learn.

Let's pretend again.  Suppose you had TWO portable (110VAC) air compressors, and your power outlet connected to a 20 amp circuit breaker.

Each air compressor requires 15 amps to function.  You turn one compressor on, and everything is fine - it works perfectly.

When you also turn on the second compressor, the breaker fails, and shuts down.  WHY?

The "why" is that 15 amps (first compressor) PLUS 15 amps (second compressor) overloaded the 20 amp circuit breaker. 

The two (2) compressors were demanding 30 amps - which is more than a 20 amp circuit breaker can supply.

I hope you understand this concept - it's very basic, but it's very important.

In all situations of electronic overload, something must fail.  It could be a hand switch, a relay, or, as above, a circuit breaker.


The reason for our decision was that with such low voltage and current, the Leslie switch would probably last for 500 years - with no burned contacts. 

We'd already seen plenty of Leslie switches with burned contacts - making them useless.

(research 147/unbalanced Leslies)


Consider the 3 position Leslie switch.  It's identical to a Fender Telecaster or Stratocaster pickup switch, and it was designed to switch ultra low voltage from guitar pickups.  But guitar pickups don't even produce one (1) volt, and the mA (current) output is so low, it's almost un-measurable. 


The Leslie switch wasn't designed for higher voltage or current switching. 

We did quite a bit of searching, but due to the unusual physical design of the Leslie switch (ie; it must fit precisely inside the half moon case, and be held in place without top mounting screws), we never found one with high contact rating. 

I'm pretty sure Fender guitars do use top mount screws, but standard half moon cases don't.

And we definitely required a stock, three position, half moon Leslie switch.  That's something we would not change for any reason.


In many (or most) situations, the Hammond player only uses one Leslie.

That means the Leslie switch is only controlling two (2) motors (upper and lower, slow or fast) at any given time. 


When you (me, actually) normally use at least three (3) Leslies, preferably four (4), the number of motors to be turned on increases - and the need for higher rated components (more current) goes up with every additional motor.


I've played one or two live shows with six (6) Leslies: that's twelve (12) fast motors, and twelve (12) slow motors.

At home, I tested LSCA-3 with eight (8) Leslies at one time - no problems whatsoever.  The LSCA-3 components didn't even get warm. 

I would have tested LSCA-3 with more motors, but I only owned eight (8) Leslies at that time.            


Maybe now you can understand why we wanted to switch very low DC control voltage and current with LSCA-3. 

And maybe now you can understand why we wanted to use superior 10 amp solid state relays, instead of any other type of motor control switch. 


Our testing proved that we were thinking the right way. 

Every part in LSCA-3 was chosen to carry higher capacity loads than LSCA-3 would ever use.


I'm sorry the picture (at the top of this box) doesn't illustrate how neat and organized our wiring is.  It's very embarrassing. 

It's a really bad, confusing picture, which was made a few days before the LSCA-3 was installed properly.   

To clarify a little: the blue/grey 110VAC feed wires look like they're going back into the LSCA-3 box - which is completely wrong. 

Those wires were connected to a switched 110VAC feed on the tone generator soon after that confusing picture was taken. 

You can see that, below.  Here's another link


These pictures show much neater wiring, but still incomplete. (note the preset panels - we got to them last)



You can believe this: when completed, our wiring is very neat.  I'm a fanatic about neat wiring. (see the pictures on the custom Leslie amp page if you doubt that)


The rest of this page explains wiring connections at the HAMMOND and at the LESLIE

In other words, CHASSIS connectors, not CABLE connectors.

Take your time, read carefully, check your work constantly - and relax.  Click the pictures frequently, too - they clarify details.


Hammond Console Installation:

Disconnect organ power before beginning

The Amphenol connector and its wires are not required for an LSCA-3 installation. 

(a)  Mount the Hammond Chassis Connector.  An AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector, complete with three labeled 72" wiring harnesses, (referred to as SIGNAL HARNESS, VOLTAGE HARNESS, and MOTOR HARNESS), is included with your LSCA-3 kit. 

SIGNAL HARNESS - red, black and brown wires

VOLTAGE HARNESS - blue and grey wires

MOTOR HARNESS - white/white and brown/brown wires

Mount this connector in the Hammond chassis outlet box.  Stainless hardware is included.  Two holes must be drilled per chassis connector.  Route the 3 harnesses up through the tube (the tube without the pedal wires is preferred) into the case of the organ. 

For installations other than B3/C3 type chassis outlet box, you'll have to fabricate or buy a secure mount for this connector.  Most metal shops can build anything you specify.  A local shop build several chassis boxes for me, and the cost was very reasonable - approximately $40.00 each.  I also had one chassis box built for eight (8) connectors.  That box cost $50.00. 

The harnesses supplied are much longer than necessary.  You can remove any excess, once you've decided exactly where the wires will be routed.

ATTENTION!  For multiple Leslie installations, the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector harness pins cannot be inserted into the chassis connectors until after the connectors are securely mounted, because the pins are inserted behind the connectors. 


This is exactly the same as if you used multiple Amphenols, for multiple Leslies - connections are behind the chassis. 


You will be supplied with the correct harnesses, completely and properly wired, for as many Leslies as you specified, but the pins will not be inserted into the connectorsYou must carefully insert the pins into the connectors after the connectors have been mounted on the chassis.


This only applies to the Hammond Chassis Connector end if you require multiple connectors. 

For single AMP-CPC installations, ignore this - all pins are inserted correctly.


Note: Leslie Chassis Connectors are completely prewired, with all pins inserted correctly.


Please refer to the LSCA-3 wiring chart (below) for the color codes and pin numbers before inserting any pins into the connectors.


(b)  Provide 110v to the LSCA-3 box and VOLTAGE HARNESS.  The blue and grey wires coming from the LSCA-3 box connect to a switched 110v source - either the blue/grey terminals on the AO28 preamp, or the (preferred) terminals on the left side of the tone generator.  At the same time, connect the blue and grey wires, which come from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector (VOLTAGE HARNESS) to the same 110v source.  Reminder: this is switched 110 volts.  110 volts present when organ is turned on.

(c)  Connect the prewired 3 position hand switch cable to the LSCA-3 box, at the terminals labeled "Chorale SWITCH Tremolo". 

White and white wires connect to the Chorale terminals.

Brown and brown wires connect to the Tremolo terminals. 

Install the 3 position hand switch into your existing halfmoon switch case, or install using your choice of alternate mounting options.

Note: the 3 position hand switch is a standard Fender Telecaster or Stratocaster pickup switch.  It's correctly prewired so it can only enable SLOW, OR OFF, OR FAST.  It cannot enable fast and slow at the same time, which can cause damage to the motors.

(d)  Connect the following 4 wires from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector (MOTOR HARNESS) to the LSCA-3 box at the terminals labeled "Slow MOTOR Fast". 

White and white wires connect to the "SLOW" terminals.

Brown and brown wires connect to the "FAST" terminals. 


You can now remove the cover and mount the LSCA-3 box to the shelf of the Hammond, using the supplied 3/4" wood screws and flat washers.  Replace the cover.

(e)  Finally, remove all existing wiring from the signal terminals of the AO28 preamp, and solder the red, black, and brown wires from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Hammond Chassis Connector (SIGNAL HARNESS) directly to the AO28 signal terminals, at terminals G  G and BRN.

This completes the LSCA-3 installation at the Hammond console end 

Leslie Amp Installation:

(please refer to and print the LSCA-3 wiring chart below)

(a)  Remove existing 6c Amphenol connector from the Leslie ampCarefully MARK each of these connections.  MARKING EXISTING WIRES IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT.  Just one small error can wreck your whole day, and probably damage your equipment, too.

Replace the Amphenol with the prewired AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie Chassis Connector included with the LSCA-3 kit.  Stainless hardware is supplied.  This connector has 12" labeled wiring harnesses

On rare occasions, the existing mounting holes may have to be filed very slightly to permit the mounting screws to be straight.  This is not "usual" - it's unusual.

Please refer to the wiring chart found below, and follow the coding exactly.  Observe professional quality wiring practice, and solder very carefully.  Use heat shrink to insulate all connections. 

(b)  Select the option for motor wiring:

(1)  wire motors to the existing motor plugs

(2)  mount a new, prewired AMP-CPC 4 conductor Motor Connector for motor wiring, if you ordered one with your LSCA-3.  If not, one can be installed anytime. (see picture 5 above)

If your option is (1), remove all existing motor wiring from the motor sockets inside the Leslie amp.  Once all wiring is removed, the brown wires from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie Chassis Connector will be soldered to the FAST motor outlets, and the white wires will be soldered to the SLOW motor outlets. 

If your option is (2), mount the prewired AMP-CPC 4 conductor Motor Connector on the Leslie amp.  Stainless hardware is supplied.  Two small holes must be drilled to mount the connector.  (See "Additional notes", below.)  Solder the brown wires to the brown wires from the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie Chassis Connector, repeat for the white wires.  Trim the wires as needed before soldering, and use heat shrink to insulate.  Run the white/brown motor harness inside the Leslie bass compartment and connect both upper and lower slow motors to the white leads.  Connect both upper and lower fast motors to the brown leads.  Insulate these connections as appropriate.  

You can mount a standard quad electrical outlet box (inside the bass compartment) with one white socket and one brown socket, and just plug the motors into the proper color outlets after wiring the outlets properly.  This should be self-explanatory.  White for slow, brown for fast.

This completes the LSCA-3 installation at the Leslie amp end 

Wiring Chart for LSCA-3 Installation

As reference, original 122 type (balanced) Leslies use the following pin connections:

Amphenol pin (1) signal - BLACK

Amphenol pin (2) ground - YELLOW

Amphenol pin (3) - 110v - GREY

Amphenol pin (4) - 110v - BLUE

Amphenol pin (5) - B+ - BROWN

Amphenol pin (6) signal - RED

As reference, original 147 type (unbalanced) Leslies use the following pin connections:

Amphenol pin (1) signal - BLACK

Amphenol pin (2) - motor switching - YELLOW

Amphenol pin (3) - 110v - GREY

Amphenol pin (4) - 110v - BLUE

Amphenol pin (5) - motor switching - BROWN

Amphenol pin (6) signal - RED


LSCA-3 uses the following pin connections.  Please print this.

AMP-CPC 9 conductor connectors

AMP-CPC pin (1) RED - organ signal + (high) : SIGNAL HARNESS

AMP-CPC pin (2) BLACK - organ signal - (low) : SIGNAL HARNESS

AMP-CPC pin (3) BROWN - organ signal - chassis ground : SIGNAL HARNESS



AMP-CPC pin (6) WHITE - slow motors : MOTOR HARNESS

AMP-CPC pin (7) WHITE - slow motors : MOTOR HARNESS

AMP-CPC pin (8) BROWN - fast motors : MOTOR HARNESS

AMP-CPC pin (9) BROWN - fast motors : MOTOR HARNESS

AMP-CPC 4 conductor motor connector


AMP-CPC pin (1) WHITE - slow motors

AMP-CPC pin (2) WHITE - slow motors

AMP-CPC pin (3) BROWN - fast motors

AMP-CPC pin (4) BROWN - fast motors

AMP-CPC Part Numbers


SHELL SIZE 17 - 9 conductor - for Hammond/Leslie cables and chassis connectors

211767-1 : receptacle
211766-1 : plug
54011-1 : heat shrink cable clamp
207299-3 : panel mount flange
66180-1 : gold pin contacts

66181-1 : gold socket contacts

SHELL SIZE 11 - 4 conductor - for Leslie motor connector

206061-1 : receptacle

206060-1 : plug
207489-1 : cable boot
207490-1 : cable clamp
207299-1 : panel mount flange

66180-1 : gold pin contacts

66181-1 : gold socket contacts

Original motor switching connections can be removed from the Leslie amp. 


The SIGNAL harness on both AMP-CPC 9 conductor Chassis Connectors (specifically the Hammond connector and the Leslie connector) provides 3 wire connection for balanced Leslies or other amplifiers. 

For unbalanced Leslies, or other unbalanced applications, connect only the BROWN (chassis ground) and the RED (signal high) wires inside the Leslie amp.  Connect all three signal wires at the Hammond end, as instructed above. 

REPEAT: For unbalanced Leslies or other unbalanced applications, do not connect the AMP-CPC 9 conductor Leslie Chassis Connector pin 2 (black, organ signal low).  Just use heat shrink to insulate it. 

This completes the installation of the LSCA-3

Additional Notes:

Because the LSCA-3 does not use the Leslie switching circuitry, the second 12AU7 tube (closer to the center of the amp chassis), socket, and all associated wiring may be removed from the amplifier.  Also, the original relay and all of its wiring may be removed, as well as the small 5 pin "brake" socket.  If you ordered the AMP-CPC 4 connector (for motors) it will fit perfectly in the hole previously used by the extra 12AU7 (switching) tube.  This hole is also available on 147 style amplifiers - it is covered with a pop out plug.

See photos here and especially HERE.  Other photos are also located on the ProKeys website - just look around.

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